Patrimony Biretrograd


Patrimony Biretrograd


Immersed in an overpowering and affectionate Ponte Vecchio in Florence, it gives glimpses and unexpected visions. A harmony that reminds me of the words of Tomasi of Lampedusa

“The landscape was full of all its beauties. Under the strong sunlight all things seemed to be before weight … and the sun felt like the true sovereign.”


A small, but precious treasure chest, the Vacheron Constantin boutique is the departure to take you to a magical and silent place where purity is a matter of proportions, sobriety is a matter of taste as well as my Patrimony Calendar Biretrograd Day and Date. It was 1955 when the Maison Geneva presented for its bicentennial three clocks, at the time the most subtle in the world, the celebrated ultra-flat models with a caliber 1003 of just 1.64 mm thick.


A sober design with the lines that inspired the creation, in 1957, of an ultra-flat round clock with pearled minuteria among the indexes, the percussionist of the Patrimony collection, since then synonymous with refined sobriety and absolute elegance. The same purity of lines I find in my goal: the prestigious Renaissance palace Antinori Corsini Serristori, now Roselli Cecconi, by Giuliano da Sangallo. This is where the Perfumery House Aquaflor Firenze is based, founded in 2009 by Sileno Cheloni’s perfumery master. Entering inside it means making a journey between olfactory instincts that inebriate and abduct the senses. Here light gives way to the twilight and the atmosphere becomes softer and blatantly “odorous”. Angles jealously conceal secrets that are only discovered by attentive and avid eyes of knowledge.


In vintage wardrobes and scaffolds, fragrances made with rare and valuable essences from all corners of the world are preserved, real olfactory jewels made on the spot by Sileno Cheloni‘s wise hand.
A refined style but expresses a modern classic like the Patrimony Biretrogrado Day and Date inspired by the historical model of 1957 but features a double original complication marked by two retrograde indications.


In this model, simplicity and aesthetic simplicity give way to mechanical complexity: the back is fitted with sapphire crystal to allow you to admire the 2460 R31R7 / 2 automatic movement, the precious heart of the finely handmade watch through a meticulous chamfering work Bridges decorated with Côtes de Genève and platinum with perlage. The pink gold case measures 42.50 mm.

The path from Aquaflor flows into three large rooms that contain Eau de Parfum, Eau de Parfum Rare, Moisturizing Water, Fiorentine Colonies, Environments, Candles and Cosmetics lines. Aquaflor’s uniqueness, which is appreciated by true perfumers, is that it can create a “tailor-made” perfume through a meeting at the perfumer’s atelier. Similarly, in watchmaking, Vacheron Constantin offers the most demanding collectors the possibility of customizing their choice through “Les Cabinotiers”, the interior designer at the Manifattura that develops unique pieces. From motion design to finish, every timepiece element can be made on the basis of customer preferences, to compose the desired essence – to maintain parallels with the fragrance range.


Returning to my Patrimony Calendar on Biretrograd Day and Date, I was able to appreciate the complexity of the mechanical movement, sophisticated and meticulous on the dial: the sublimation of the concept of technique in the service of aesthetics and functionality. Complex in construction but absolutely usable and readable in the directions: The Patrimony Calendar Biretrogrado Day and Date is suitable to be worn in everyday life with ease and comfort of use.

In addition to hours and minutes, the watchmasters of Acheron Constantin have added two of the most useful complications, day and date, shown through the two retrograde indicators that are original as well as complex in their mechanics: the expression of a technique to the service aesthetics. The dial, complex in its construction, is shaped on the outside and resumes the aesthetic codes of the Patrimony collection: the stick hands, the four triangular gold galvanized indexes at 3, 6, 9 and 12, such as the pearl cutter in Golden cabochons. Wearing this watch is a unique experience that gives the emotion of having a timepiece on the wrist that does not go unnoticed for its extreme, how simple, elegant.


But what’s most striking is its great versatility: you can wear it with a classic dress, with a casual outfit, either with a smoking or with a faded jacket. All this is possible thanks to the contoured dial that reduces the thickness of the case, resulting in bent at the end, creating a contemporary watch and perfectly matched to the look of the day. Morning, evening, afternoon … the passing of time will be marked by a “daily elegance”.

Charge reserve of more than 40 hours; Waterproof up to 30 meters.

Photo&Article: A. Raffaelli

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